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A tropical paradise or slightly scary? We get to the heart of holidaying in Jamaica.
By Anna Smith
Jamaica, even with its lush greenery and beautiful golden sands, isn't always seen as the friendliest island in the Caribbean.
It may be home to reggae legend Bob Marley and the world's fastest man, Olympic champion Usain 'Lightning' Bolt - as well as some of the finest rum and coffee in the world - but media coverage has painted it a crime-riddled, dangerous place.
The former British colony reportedly has one of the highest murder rates in the world, with gun crime rife as gangs battle over drugs and turf.
So it hardly helped my nerves when a gun-toting 'madman' held up a plane and took hostages in Montego Bay, Jamaica's second-largest city, 24 hours before we got there.
But any sense of menace was quickly dispelled as we arrived safely at Sangster International Airport, returned a wave from the smiling ground staff and admired pictures lining the walls painted by children at a nearby school.
Our friendly driver Maxwell explained the previous day's events, which closed the airport for several hours. He made a "crazy in the head" sign and said the guy was carted off to hospital, with little fuss and no injuries.
It's hard to take in when you see the island's tropical rainforests, sprawling American-style resorts, topsy-turvy shacks and white-washed mansions - one of which, Maxwell pointed out, belongs to Rolling Stones guitarist Keith Richards.
The main problem, Maxwell says, is gang violence and gun crime centred in Kingston, on the south of the island, and Montego Bay. But it's all pretty much contained, he shrugs, and petty crime figures are roughly the same as anywhere else.
On the way to our resort Couples Sans Souci, in the north near the port town of Ocho Rios, Maxwell pointed out tourist hotspots.
There's Dry Harbour, now called Discovery Bay, said to be the landing point of Christopher Columbus when he claimed Jamaica for Spain in 1494.
To the west of the bay is a port where the St Ann Bauxite Company exports aluminium ore. As well as tourism, Jamaica's economy is dependent on mining - it is the second biggest exporter of Bauxite in the world, behind only Australia.
The huge mine, with its giant tunnel leading down to the water's edge where giant ships from around the world fill their loads, employs 450 and is one of the best-paid jobs around "even if you just clean the floors".
Closer to Ocho Rios - Spanish for 'eight rivers' - we saw Dolphin Cove, a popular tourist attraction where you can swim with sea mammals, or sharks if you prefer!
The Green Grotto Caves are a labyrinth of limestone caverns that stretch 1,500 metres and are 12 metres deep. It was early morning, but tourists in blue plastic rain macs were already hurrying inside to escape a seasonal rain storm.
Not far away is picturesque Dunn's River Falls, which attracts visitors from all over Jamaica and was recommended to us by a friend.
It turned out to be a great laugh. You hold hands with fellow tourists and scale the rocks in a human chain as cool water cascades all around. Just be sure you say "Yeah man!" to the cameras as the guides record the adventure for a DVD keepsake!
We arrived at Couples Sans Souci tired, but ready to see more. Our traditional Jamaican room had floral bedspreads, mismatched furniture and cream floor tiles throughout. The full-blast air-con was a welcome relief to the hot and humid temperature outside.
Sans Souci has an old-school charm that creates a cosy, homely haven. It's built into a cliff, with lots of windy paths and stone steps linking the different aspects of the resort - the arched beach bay, the restaurants, bars and pools, the well-equipped fitness suite and excellent spa facilities, where we indulged in a couples massage in a gazebo perched on the edge of the Caribbean Sea. It's impossible not to relax with the sound of waves lapping against the rocks below.
Jamaica, and Sans Souci in particular, are popular with American tourists, thanks to the short hour-and-a-half flight to Florida. Get ready for organised games and beach parties where you dance to the beat of the steel band!
We also spent a day at Couples Tower Isle, two miles up the road.
The resort, the first of the Couples empire, had just undergone a multi-million dollar refurbishment. Where Sans Souci is traditional, Tower Isles is modern with a European feel, and everything brand spanking new.
Don't miss the piano bar, lined with black and white photos of the company's founder Abe Issa rubbing shoulders with celebrities such as Walt Disney, actress Eva Gabor, boxer Joe Louis and even English comedy legend Norman Wisdom. Abe was nicknamed the father of Jamaican tourism when, in the late 1950s, he helped visitor arrivals surge from 86,000 to 227,000 per year.
It's easy to slip back to a bygone era, sipping a cool gin and tonic on a retro, striped chaise long.
But visitors afraid to venture off their resorts in Jamaica will miss out on really seeing and experiencing the culture of this diverse and dynamic country.
Downtown Ocho Rios - or 'Ochie' as it's fondly known - was once a fishing village. It's now a famous stop for cruise ships in the Caribbean and is considered one of the safest areas for tourists in Jamaica.
The town is busy and vibrant, with colourful, if rundown, shop fronts and side-road market stalls. Our visit coincided with the school bell, and children in smart green-and-white-chequered uniforms played in the town's well-manicured Turtle River Park. A group of youngsters cheekily asked to take our photo with their new digi-cam!
Our reception in Jamaica couldn't have been warmer. And there's one other thing British visitors should remember: with the pound buying almost 150 Jamaican dollars, your money will go a bit further than it might in other countries this summer.
Key facts - Couples Resorts Jamaica
:: Best for: Couples wanting a relaxing, romantic getaway.
:: Time to go: June-September is fine for a low-cost, less crowded holiday with occasional showers. Peak tourist season of mid-December to mid-April offers guaranteed sunshine.
:: Don't miss: Bicycle tour of Jamaican Blue Mountains, named after blue tint in mountain mist. Ride through tropical rainforest, home to hundreds of species of birds and plant life and world-renowned Blue Mountain Coffee plantations.
:: Need to know: With the pound up 92% against the Jamaican dollar, Jamaica came fourth in a Post Office poll for best-value destinations.
:: Don't forget: Most resorts and shops around Ocho Rios trade in American dollars, so make sure you get a good deal if you pay with Jamaican currency. Converting sterling into Jamaican into American and back again can be a puzzle.
Travel facts
Anna Smith was a guest of Thomson Holidays, which offers seven-night, all-inclusive stays at Couples San Souci from £1,500 in mid-August, including flights ex-Gatwick with Thomsonfly and transfers.
Regional deps for same week include Manchester (£1,380), and Glasgow, (also £1,380).
Thomson Holidays: 0871 231 4691 and www.thomson.co.uk.
Jamaica Tourist Board information: on 0207 225 9090 and www.visitjamaica.com. Resort information on www.couplesresorts.co.uk.
