Enjoy the wonders of this beautiful resort, nestled in a beautiful valley in the French Alps and overlooked by majestic Mont Blanc
By Matt Dickinson
Nestled in a beautiful valley in the French Alps and overlooked by majestic Mont Blanc, Chamonix is a wonderful place to go for a bracing, refreshing break almost all-year round.
Around 10,000 people are reckoned to live in the town - about 1,000 of them Britons, including many who couldn't face the idea of going home.
I can easily see their point of view. Chamonix has got activities for every age group and ability, superb food and shopping, and as much astounding scenery as your eyeballs can handle.
The weather is generally great, with the possible exception of November - when the local rains are famous.
The problem is that it's a plane ride away in Europe, and therefore the living costs are about 20% dearer than a year ago.
If you're able to save enough money to get away, why bother risking the haemorrhaging of cash on the Continent when you can try to do something cheaper closer to home?
Well, I went to Scotland for a five-day walking break earlier this year, and blew the thick end of £500 on travel, accommodation, food and drink. Two days were pretty much washed out by the weather, too.
On the other hand, I have just been to Chamonix for four action-packed days, and was delighted to find it compared pretty well on the finance front. The town also smashed just about anything we have to offer out of the park, in terms of climate, food, scenery - you name it.
In winter, the valley's steep slopes and high altitude make it a mecca for experienced skiers and snowboarders. But in summer Chamonix is much more user-friendly and basically a huge outdoor playground for people of all abilities.
Return flights to Geneva should cost from around £100 per person. I would also recommend booking a 50-euro (£45) return transfer to Chamonix with one of the town's many door-to-door lift services. You can use public transport, but it will cost roughly the same in price and more in hassle by the time you've paid for buses, trains and taxis.
There is a huge range of accommodation available in the town, some of it exceptionally good value.
Double rooms in a good quality two-star hotel can be found for as little as 46 euros (£40) per night per room, with even cheaper one-star options available.
Expect to pay a bit extra for breakfast, but given some of the hotels I saw, these prices still present great value for money.
With travel and accommodation out the way for, say, £260 per person, you can turn your attention to what Chamonix has to offer.
Two of its best and most memorable attractions - the views and walking - are completely free.
The town proper is at an altitude of 1,000m in the middle of a beautiful, wooded valley 25km long and up to 1.5km wide.
Soaring up to the north and south are a magnificent range of mountains that have drawn visitors to the area ever since it was first "discovered" by some plucky English tourists back in 1741.
Mont Blanc, at 4,809m Western Europe's highest mountain, dominates with its mighty snow-covered flanks, along with several huge glaciers that sprawl mesmerisingly down towards the valley.
Also spectacular are the towering "aiguille" (needle) peaks that are such a memorable feature of the Chamonix scenery. Buzz-saw sharp and seemingly unreachable, they attract climbers from all over the world.
To the north is a greener and slightly more friendly-looking mountain range which rises to 2,800m, and features some splendid hiking routes.
Altogether, the Chamonix valley and its mountains offer some 350km of marked footpaths taking you through some of the world's most beautiful scenery.
You could slog up from the valley floor to one of the mountain restaurants, or take it easier by ambling east through the town along the l'Arve river path through some of Chamonix's neighbouring villages.
Around a dozen different cable cars, gondola lifts and even train rides also service different peaks and other spots in the valley.
They are great for accessing some of the higher and more spectacular walking routes, including the 'balcons' - horizontal paths on the north and south sides of the valley that offer some of the Alps' best panoramic views.
Wherever you head off, you'll need good footwear, suncream and plenty of water. There is no shortage of food refreshment on offer, however, with a good range of snack bars, restaurants and even hotels dotted around the valley.
The train ride from Chamonix up to Montenvers and the Mer de Glace glacier is well worth it. The gigantic ice flow was one of the first to be studied properly and offers a compelling glimpse of how the climate has changed over the centuries.
After chatting to the visitor centre's resident glaciologist, and even walking about on the ice if you feel up to it, you could grab a snack or sit down for a superb lunch at the Grand Hotel du Montenvers, perched high over the valley.
Another great way of seeing the sights is by mountain bike. There are dozens of hire locations, and in cycle-friendly France you can use the same network of footpaths for hikers to see even more of the area.
Chamonix also has a well-appointed tennis club, a 25m swimming pool and a beautiful 18-hole golf course which welcomes visitors.
You can learn to climb at a lovely spot next to a lake, have a go at paragliding or even go rafting down the river through the town.
The area's beauty and facilities attract nearly two million visitors a year, making it the third most-visited spot in France behind Paris and Brittany's Mont St Michel, swamping the valley's permanent inhabitants.
In the busiest times in July and especially August, every one of the resort's 60,000 beds might be booked out.
June and September could be more to your taste, with the weather reliably warm and noticeably thinner crowds.
Food could well end up being the most enjoyable part of your trip, leaving you heavier on departure than arrival despite all your exertions.
One lovely find was the friendly Hotel Eden in the Les Praz part of the valley. You can gaze up at Mont Blanc over an aperitif on the terrace, then adjourn to the splendidly good-value restaurant.
For blow-outs, Chamonix has two Michelin-starred restaurants: the one-star Le Bistrot, which has a 65 euro (£60) tasting menu; and the sumptuous two-starred Le Hameau Albert 1er, where you could do some serious damage to your wallet.
The town really has something for everyone, except perhaps diehard beach bums, and was surprisingly good value for money.
In these strained times, playtime and what you do with it is even more important if you want to enjoy life.
Key facts - Chamonix
:: Best for: Amazing Alpine views and outdoor activities such as walking, hiking and cycling.
:: Time to go: July/August are crowded with tourists, June and September much quieter;
:: Don't miss: Evening drink at one of the cafes in the Places Balmat or Saussure, gazing up at the mountains.
:: Need to know: The Savoy region in which Chamonix sits has a proud history of independence and only officially became part of France in 1860.
:: Don't forget: Sturdy pair of walking shoes, local map.
Travel facts
Matthew Dickinson was a guest of Chamonix Tourist Board and flew Easyjet, which offers returns into Geneva from Birmingham, Manchester, Glasgow, Edinburgh and London (Gatwick, Luton, Stansted) from £60 return.
Private airport transfers from Mountain Drop-offs start at 25 euros. Reservations: 0033 450 471 773 and www.mountaindropoffs.com.
He stayed at Le Labrador Hotel, where double rooms start at 103 euros per night (low season), 140 euros (high).
Reservations: 0033 450 559 009 and www.hotel-labrador.com.
Chamonix Tourist Board enquiries: 00 33 450 530 024 and www.chamonix.com.
Flexiski.com short breaks in Chamonix for skiers this winter starts at £530, including return flights ex-Gatwick, private transfers, three nights' B&B in Hotel Alpina. Same price ex-Manchester, £50 supp ex-Glasgow.
Flexiski reservations: 020 8939 0864 and www.flexiski.com.
